C-Frame (My Design)
I try not to spend money on things I can make myself and this is one of them. The top and bottom supports are 1x3 and 1x4" plate 6061 aluminum. The rear block is 1.5"x4x4.5" block with two 3/8"-16 threaded rod through all three pieces and tapped into the base. The extension and anvil rods are 1018 mild steel turned on my lathe. Cost about $16 in materials from Davis Salvage yard in Phoenix, Az.

Emcomat 8.6 Lathe
This is an Emcomat 8.6 bought at a city surplus auction. It replaced my Harbor Freight 4x10 lathe. This lathe was missing a couple of parts but was able to self-replicate. It is in great running condition and I am very happy with it. More information about my Emcomat 8.6 lathe is here."

Workbench
This is the standard EAA workbench with a couple of modifications. First the top extends 2" out on 3 sides for giving a lip for clamping. Second, one side has steel angle attached to make a surface for fabricating the trailing edge of the rudder. Third was that I added an old drawer to it that I had laying around which is handy.

Mini-Mill
This is the Harbor Freight mini-mill. I've gotten a lot of use from it. Lately I've blown the drive gear out of it twice by taking the machine past it's capability. It has a R-8 spindle. I use a tool holder or collet for milling. The photo has a drill chuck in the spindle. My main complaint about this machine is the poor Z-axis control. Since I have gotten the Seig X3, I only use this as a drill press.

Seig X3 Mill
This is the latest addition to the shop - a more manly mill. At 300 lbs, this mill has more ass behind it than the mini-mill. The X-Y table is much smoother and the Z control is a great improvement. Z control is marked in one-half thousands increments and stays where you put it. I bought it from Grizzly.

Bending Brake
36" from Harbor Frieght. More stuff from China.

Blast Chamber
Bought on ebay which I don't recommend because it is shipped completely disassembled. No matter how much I have tried, I have been unable to seal all the seams to prevent glass bead from leaking out. A friend of mine bought one from Harbor Freight and it came mostly assemble and factory sealed.

This is great to have around for rebuilding engines and machinery. Degrease first and then blast it clean in the chamber.

Band Saw
This is a great saw from Harbor Freight but the throat is a little shallow at four inches. I modified the saw to take a sturdier table with custom rip fence for upright cutting. I like that on horizontal cuts that you can put the stock in it, turn it on and go do something else. The saw will do it's job and turn itself off when it is done. Way cool!

Hand Tools
There are numerous sheet metal working hand tools that you will need.

One of the most important tools you will have is the rivet squeezer. You will need a set of squeezing bits and a set of dimple dies to use with it. Two things I do not like about my squeezer are 1) The C-frames are not flat and can not be held easily in a vise. 2) The handles flex when you really need them to be rigid.

Other tools shown are the seaming pliers. They are used to grab someone's nose and lead them out of the shop. Fluting pliers - used to grab someone's finger and lead them out of the shop.

Back riveting set, debur and cleco pliers also shown. I used a piece of scrap steel, about 5" x 36" as my back riveting plate.

RV-10 Tail Stand
This RV-10 tail stand was made from a Harbor Freight Underhoist Safety Stand (41860). The original stand has a 93" maximum height. I cut about the bottom third of the stand off to make it short enough to get under the RV-10 tail. I then modified the flat top of the stand with right angle and a center drilled rod to attach it to the tail tie down ring.

The stand holds the tail in the up direction which is the only direction I have ever had to move it. Rotating the jack screw raises the tail to level the airplane. The airplane is very tail heavy and I have never had to hold the tail down.

RV-10 Fuselage Stand
This RV-10 fuselage stand holds the fuselage at the main and rear wing spars and does not touch the skins in any way. I held the fuselage to the stand with tie down straps but more elaborate brackets could be used. It was a great convenience to have the stand on wheels although you have to chock the wheels when working on the fuselage.